Travelogue: Spiritual Sikkim

By Kartik Lokhande
Sikkim is known for its beautiful landscapes, flowers,lakes, snow-clad mountains. But, of late, it is also acquiring the reputation of being one of the fastest emerging states in the area of religious tourism. Apart from Buddhist tourist centres, there are new centres like Siddheshwar Dham at Solophok that are attracting tourists from all over the country. Of course, many more sites are still under development. Here are glimpses of some major religious and spiritual sites:

Pics by Kartik Lokhande

Rumtek

Rumtek’s main attraction is its Tibetan Buddhist monastery, which has been designated as an important ‘Dharma Chakra Centre’ – the International Headquarters of Karma Kagyu sect of Mahayana Buddhism, and the main seat of His Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapa in Exile. It is home to some of the most sacred, rare scriptures and religious objects.
According to references available, the 9th Karmapa Wangchuk Dorje originally built it in the 16th century. But in 1959, the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa, fleeing from Tibet found the monastery in ruins and decided to rebuild it. The construction was completed in four years with the patronage of the royal family and the Government of India. The sacred items and relics brought from the Tsurphu Monastery of Tibet, the original seat of glorious Karmapas, were installed within and in 1966, it was inaugurated as ‘The Dharmachakra Centre’. In fact, this monastery is a replica of Tsurphu monastery in Tibet.
It is the largest monastery in Sikkim and later monasteries were modeled on its architectural style. The complex at Rumtek also includes a monastic college and a nun’s hostel among other institutions. It also came into limelight in 2000 for geopolitical reasons when the 17th Karmapa, one of the four holiest lamas, escaped from Lhasa (Tibet) and sought refuge in Rumtek.

The prayer wheels all along the road leading to the monastery from its entry gate, depiction of Buddha in various meditational forms in the wall paintings, and security of armed personnel catch the eye immediately. One finds that apart from colourfully decorated interiors, Buddha statue, and religious scriptures, there are magnificently detailed paintings on every inch of the outer entrance wall of the monastery’s main hall. Interestingly, image of Lord Ganesh also is painted on this wall. There is a big courtyard with a stone pillar standing in the middle. During winters, the mountains around are snow-capped. During our visit in June, we found beautifully decorations made from edible items for the Vajra Kilaya practice. The smiling student-lamas offered us a ‘lucky stone’ also as blessing from the monastery.

Samdruptse

Situated near Namchi in South Sikkim district, Sikkim Government has come up with Chief Minister Pawan Kumar Chamling’s ‘dream project’ – a huge tall statue of Guru Padmasambhava at Samdruptse. In Bhutia language, Samdruptse means ‘wish fulfilling hill’.
Samdruptse is at a distance of 75 kms from Gangtok. A gigangtic 135 feet tall statue of Guru Padamasambhava is installed atop Samdruptse. It is the highest statue of Guru Padamasambhava in the world. His Holiness the Dalai Lama laid the foundation stone of the statue in October 1997, and it took around three years to complete the work.
Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rimpoche, is known to have blessed Sikkim more than 1,200 years ago. The statue is a tribute to this patron saint of Sikkim. When we went there, clouds engulfed the statue. We could see the statue in its full grandeur only when the sunrays managed to melt away the floating blanket of clouds.
Samdruptse is still under development as a tourist destination. There is a parking lot, public conveniences, restaurants, souvenir shops etc at the location. Sikkim Government plans to make Samdruptse an international pilgrimage centre on completion of meditation huts, ropeway library, guest house, etc around the towering statue. The statue of Guru Padmasambhava is visible from other hills also.

Solophok ‘Chaar Dhaam’

Conceptualised in 2005, completed in 2011 and inaugurated in the year 2013, ‘Chaar Dhaam’ or ‘Siddheswar Dham’ temple complex is the latest tourist attraction in Sikkim. Developed atop a mountain in Solophok in Namchi in South Sikkim, it is visible even from a long distance with its 108 feet tall statue of Lord Shiva as the Presiding Deity.
The entire temple complex, which has been developed keeping in mind all facilities for tourists, comprises replicas of four most revered ‘Dham’ of Hindus -- Jagannath, Dwarka, Rameshwaram, and Badrinath located in different directions of the country. Besides, it has replicas of 12 Jyotirlinga temples, and a main hall atop which is installed the imposing statue of Lord Shiva. It is spread over 29.9 hectares of land.
Towards the entrance of the complex is a statue of Kirateshwar with a bow in his hand. The entire landscape is so beautifully and neatly developed that one does not get tired even after climbing stairs to visit various temples. The whole place is adorned by flowering plants, adding charm to the atmosphere. The large specks of white clouds and blue sky provide a perfect scenic backdrop to the view. There are prayer halls and a meditation hall of Brahmakumaris also. It is a place worth visiting if one is looking to get a feel of spiritual centres of India at one single place.

Chhangu Lake

Chhangu Lake or Tsomgo, as it is called by locals, is one of the biggest lakes in East Sikkim. Apart from being one of the major tourist attractions, it has got a religious significance. It is located at a height of 3,757 metres. It literally means ‘source of lake’ in Bhutia language.

Located about 40 km away from Gangtok, the lake is about one km long, oval in shape, 15 meters deep, and is considered sacred by the locals. The surrounding high mountains add to the beauty of the lake. Locals hold festivals around the lake. Chhangu is home to a large variety of fish. This sacred lake freezes from December to March (sometimes, up to April as it happened this year) and derives its water from rain and glaciers. On the lakeside is a small temple of Lord Shiva.
The name Tsomgo means ‘Above the Lake’. This name was given by Yak herders. According to folklore, the lake was in a place called Laten in olden times, and the place where the lake is today, was actually a ‘Goth’ (cattle shed), where the herders kept their Yaks. One night, an old woman was told in her dreams to leave the place quickly as it would be filled with water. The next morning she warned other herders, who refused to believe her. As she left the village, she saw a lady with flowing hair, believed to be the guardian deity of the lake, enter the valley. Soon, the place was filled with water. Thus, Tsomgo lake was formed. The other herders, however, perished in the water along with the herds of Yak.
Today, the lake is worshipped by people, who make religious offerings especially during ‘Guru Pournima’. 

Published in 'Travel' section of The Hitavada's sunday supplement 'Insight' on July 6, 2014

The State of Flowers 

Mother Nature has showered her abundant blessings on Sikkim and it is visible everywhere. Right from the Alpine flora of Juniper and Cypress on mountain tops and slopes to the Rhododendron valleys, one is surprised pleasantly by sheer abundance of colourful flowers.

Rhododendron is state tree of Sikkim. Flowers of myriad colours adorn the valleys and even the high-altitude places like Kupup, Lachung, Thangu leaves one wondering about the magic that is called Nature. The mountains half-clad with snow with rocky belly visible, provide a perfect backdrop to highlighting the beauty of flowers.

Orchid is the state flower of Sikkim, and abundance of a variety of flowers of different colours, patterns, and designs steal one’s heart. Then, there are other flowers like Jerbera, roses among the familiar ones and countless many among the botanically known ones. One wonders to see that only one leaf at the flowering end of branches of a tree is white in colour while the rest leaves are green. The flowering trees even in the difficult geographical conditions welcome tourists with a philosophical message – no matter what, what matters is existence!

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